Malaysian Fabric Heritage

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Diana Pemberton-Sikes is a wardrobe and image consultant and author of “Wardrobe Magic,” an ebook that shows women how to transform their unruly closets into workable, wearable wardrobes. Visit her online at http://www.fashionforrealwomen.com.

There is so much variety available in fabric shops, on-line, and in mail-order catalogs that it’s almost difficult to choose. Often, I end up buying fabric whether I need it right now or not. After all, a quilter must always have fabric on hand.

The “magic” comes when you find a fabric that you fall in love with. Finding a suitable fabric usually isn’t difficult for a project you’re working on. Settling on just one fabric is the hard part.

Here are some criteria to keep in mind when making fabric selections: colorfast quality; fiber content; surface design. If you stick to some guidelines about these criteria, then you’re sure to be pleased with the final result of your project.

Surface Design:

The printed or woven surface design and, of course, the color, is very important.

1) Try to pick fabrics with the same color value so one doesn’t stand out in the finished quilt.

2)Check to see if there is a one-way direction in the design; you may need to purchase extra fabric to allow for cutting fabrics with plaids or stripes.

3) The size of the design and the background spaces are also important considerations. Are the designs large, medium, or small? Is the background area prominent? How will this particular fabric look when cut it into small quilt pieces? If the design is too widely spaced, it may be lost in the cutting of the fabric.

Take a few minutes to analyze fabric and keep these questions in mind when purchasing fabric. It is far better to have left over fabric than be working on a project and run out of material. I’ve run out before only to find that the fabric is no longer in stock.

Colorfast Quality:

Avoid fabrics that fade. Pigment-dyed fabric resists light 40 hours. Wet-printed resists light 20 hours. The best thing to avoid having your quilt fade is to keep it out of direct sunlight.

Fiber Content:

The fiber content is especially important when purchasing fabric for quilts. The way fabric responds to manipulation is determined by the fiber content. The standard 100% cotton fabric sold for quilting is easy to work with and this is the best choice.

Cotton blends are harder to work with; they tend to shift while cutting or sewing them. 100% cotton is strong when wet, absorbs moisture, creases easily, irons nicely at high temperatures and wears well.

Beware of Discount Fabric:

For a good finished product, quilters need to purchase good-quality, colorfast cotton fabric from a reputable supplier. I’ve bought fabric from discount stores because I liked the print. Then I had trouble manipulating the material; it would shift and bunch as I sewed it.

The finished product usually reflected the problems I encountered while sewing. No matter how much money I saved on material, my time was wasted by producing a less than satisfactory quilt.

In order to be happy with your finished product, I recommend that you buy what appeals to you… as long as it is good-quality, colorfast cotton fabric that is treated with finishes to control shrinkage, resist soil, and resist wrinkling.

Janet Montie shares helpful tips and discoveries from a lifelong study of topics related to fabric and quilting. Visit First Class Fabric and The Quilt Box, your premier resources on-line for information on fabric or quilts.

The past few weeks I have been sorting through my overwhelming collection of fabric. Yes, for most of you this may only take a few hours or a couple days, but for my toppling stash, it can very easily take a couple of weeks! As I am sorting different pieces into piles for projects, several thoughts are running through my mind – Why did I ever buy this fabric? Why didn’t I buy another yard of that? Oh, I wish I had the coordinate to this floral! I’m tired of this fabric; it has sat on my shelf for over 5 years and I still haven’t used it.

Often I will end up with more fabric than I need for a project or not quite enough for what I am wanting to do. What are my guidelines for buying fabric? Everyone has their own ideas, but here are a few of my thoughts…

When I first started sewing and buying fabric, I had a 3 yard rule. It didn’t matter what it was, if I liked it, I bought 3 yards. In my mind this gave me enough for several kinds of garments, lots of quilt blocks and borders and plenty for cutting and stitching errors. Several years later, I knew my 3 yard rule had to change. Not only was I running out of space to store all my fabric, but my checkbook just couldn’t handle the expense.

I desperately needed to develop a new strategy for buying fabric, so I came up with the following rules:

It’s a piece I love & can use in various ways, 3-4 yards.

It’s something I like & don’t have anything that is similar, 2-3 yards.

I absolutely love it, but don’t have any idea what I’ll use it for, 1-2 yards.

It’s unique & different, but not my favorite, 1/2 – 1 yard.

It’s on sale for a fantastic price & can be used in a hundred different ways, whatever is left on the bolt.

Now, with quite a fabric stash built up, I don’t always buy following these guidelines. Over the years my taste and thinking in fabric has changed. Some fabrics I have used and am now tired of trying to use in new projects. A few are dated in the sense that some prints and colors are popular for a time and then go out of style. I have also developed more of a feel for which fabrics I will be more likely to use and what projects I can create from them.

I still love fabric and will indulge in several yards here and there, but not to the extent that I did in past years. I try to keep in mind the following:

I’m using it for a project right now, whatever I need plus 1/4-1/2 yard extra.

It’s a solid, marbled, textured, or tone on tone print that can easily be used to stitch embroidery designs on, plus many other uses, 3-4 yards.

It’s a novelty fabric, floral design, kid’s theme or Christmas print and I love it, 1-2 yards.

What’s my theory behind these guidelines? If I am only purchasing a yardage amount for a project, I like to have a little extra. That way if I make mistakes such as figuring wrong measurements or cutting wrong sizes, I’m still ok. A solid, marbled, textured or tone on tone fabric is perfect for embellishing with embroidery; for obvious reasons – the designs will show up on these fabrics versus a busy print. Not only are these pieces great for embroidery, but they also work well for blending or coordinating novelty and floral print fabrics. A fabric that is an obvious or busy print is more limited and can’t be used quite as many ways as a solid, so I try not to buy as much of it. It can easily be incorporated with several solids or tone on tone fabrics.

This lets me get the fabric I need, while letting me purchase some fabric for future use. It keeps my fabric stash in check, but doesn’t let it dwindle down to nothing! There are still times when I enter a fabric store or go online and buy more than I really need. Or as my mom used to say when I would come home with a sack full of fabric or another box of fabric arrived at our front door, “You just can’t stand it; you just had to buy it!” But when starting a new project, I try to use fabric from my collection with maybe only needing to buy a piece or two to blend in with what I already own.

Do I regret having the fabric that keeps my shelves overflowing? No, definitely not! Maybe I went a little overboard, but I have found it very useful to have multiple pieces in several colors of prints and solids. I can pull out pieces and coordinate the colors I want for whatever project I am currently work on. I may only need one or two additional pieces to complete it or perhaps none at all.

The next time you are ready to buy yards of fabric, keep in mind what you are going to use it for. Is it just something you love and will not really use? Or is it a marbled or textured piece of fabric that can be used to stitch embroidery designs, blend with floral or novelty fabrics or used as a quilt backing?

Do keep in mind that your fabric buying habits and ideas will change. There will be times when you are sewing more projects with prints versus solids or batiks. Or perhaps two or three colors will grab your attention for several months. There are most certainly no rights or wrongs in purchasing fabric, just different ideas. Thinking about what you are buying and the reason for it may help your stash to be put into quilts and other projects instead of just sitting on the shelf.

Ladies,

Spring has come for some of us and will happen soon for others. Here
are some tips for creating a new spring/summer fashion to your wardrobe.
Go to your favorite fabric store and purchase a 1/2 yard ( 18″ by
54 to 60″ wide) of stretch fabric.

This will be enough to make a tube top and cover a pair of thong
sandals. If you have three or four pairs, pruce them up by covering
them up with other different types of print stretch fabrics.
Now make the tube tops to match them and you have a new
spring and summer look. Take those old flip flops sandals out of
the closet.

1. You start by covering the sides with your new
fabric (the stretch fabric), you can use a spray adhesive (3M
Supper adhesive) you can purchase at a hardware store. Cover the
top and bottom part of the sandals so you don’t get any adhesive on
those areas.

Cut a wide strip of fabric that will wrap around the sides of the
body of the sandal and cut away the excess hanging over the top edge
and bottom edge.

2. Now cut a strip to cover the top part of the thong.
Make sure you protect the area where you feet sits onto the sandal
by covering the part where your feet rest on the insole. Use
brown paper bag with masking tape. Spray the thong and spray the
inside or wrong side of the fabric and press it onto the thong material
part of the shoe. Have a new sole put on those that need it.

3. Tube top blouse are very simple to make. Just cut the fabric 3″
less than the size of the width of your waist. Example, if your
waist is 28 inches cut the fabric 25 inches wide,
fold and sew edges together, 1/2 inch on the seam.

A good stretchy fabric that stretches both direction is what you look
for in a good stretch fabric. It will fit comfortably on
your bust size as well.

Enjoy your new fashion. Also suitable for young teens and little girls.
For a step by step illustration go to: http://www.deyostudios.com
You’ll see swatches of new spring stretch fabrics we sell. We also
sell cement adhesive kit with brushes. This cement gives a better and
tigher final attachment. It’s sold by the ounce (2 1/2 oz).
You can also see other creations and designs that may be of interest.

Do you have a yen to wear vintage clothing but aren’t sure how to begin?  Or perhaps you’d like to update your look without breaking the bank.  Vintage scarves are the answer.  They are easy to find, easy to wear and affordable.  Here’s three reasons you’ll want to add a versatile vintage scarf to your fashion repertoire.

1. Vintage scarves are a classic style that can be made fresh and new.

Scarves have been worn since ancient Rome.  They’ve been used as neck wraps and belts and for warmth and for beauty in every fabric from wool to cotton to silk.  Fashion trends may come and go but the scarf is always in style and can be worn on the wrist, neck, head, hand bag and even as a light wrap or shawl.  Try twisting several sheer scarves in complimentary colors to get a swirl of color or make a halter top from a larger scarf.

2. A stylish scarf is a small investment that can perk up any outfit.

Does your wardrobe need a lift?  Then add a colorful vintage scarf in silk or rayon to a jacket, dress or handbag.  Scarves can be mixed and matched to your own wardrobe and come in all price ranges depending on the label, age and fabric.  Designer labels and scarves printed with a maker mark usually command a higher price. If you want an affordable collectible look for the “Vera” label or logo printed on the scarf.  It’s a quality brand that is still being made.   There are also plenty of vintage scarves without labels that are made using quality fabrics and can still be found for a modest sum.  After all, pay less and you may be able to buy two!

3. A scarf is uniquely yours.

Why buy new mass produced goods when each vintage scarf is its own unique treasure in a rainbow of colors and designs. The chances are very slim that you’ll find a duplicate style or color in vintage. Create your own flair or statement with a neck wrap or shawl and make it your signature look. Check pictures online to get inspired then let the scarf flow as a neck wrap, hair tie or wrap turban.  You can tuck it in a jacket pocket or tie it at the waist for a splash of color. Add a pin or a second sheer scarf as an accent. With experimentation one scarf can become a dozen looks.

Check flea markets, your neighborhood boutique and online sites to see prices and availability of vintage scarves.  Watch for quality fabrics like silk and rayon or choose cotton or polyester for durability and bright colors. Always check the scarf tags for maker and washing instructions.  If there is no label assume it should be hand washed.   Be sure to experiment with different size scarves and unleash your creativity.  Enjoy the hunt for the perfect vintage scarf and your lucky find will never go out of style.

Fun Fact: Audrey Hepburn and Grace Kelly, both fashion icons, were know for their distinctive way with a scarf.  Hepburn often wore a head scarf to frame her heart shaped face and highlight her luminous eyes. Grace Kelly wore her scarf  as a way to protect her hairstyle and still look glamorous while traveling.  This style with the scarf over the head, wrapped around and tied at the throat is known as the “Grace Kelly.”

The most durable of fabrics used for clothing is used to make jeans. Jeans should be the most durable item of clothing in your closet. Ripped jeans were more expensive when they were in style. The trend now is to have your jeans look like your have worn them for months. Here are some tips on how to rip them to look trendy.

You will need the following materials:
- New jeans
- Pair of scissors
- File and sandpaper
- Large safety pin
- Bleach (optional)

The jeans should be washed. If you are able you should start with slightly worn jeans. You should wash newly purchased jeans three or four times before wearing them. Choose where to locate the rip. Jeans should only be ripped at places where pressure will be applied, like the hips, pockets, buttocks, and knees. While you go about your normal daily routine, these areas often come into contact with the ground. A small slit should be cut. Make a tiny cut with scissors where you want to rip to appear.

Sand the fabric with a nail file or sandpaper. Select hardest file or roughest sandpaper possible. Scrub over the desired area to be ripped.

Make a rip using a pin. If you want to make a small hole instead of a cut use a safety pin to pull out some threads. Put the pin point in between the threads and pull out just one thread then rip the thread from the jeans. Keep doing this until you have a hole.

Scrub the denim once more. Using the sandpaper or file rough up the edges of the rips you have just made. Have some frayed ends too if that is the look you want.

The jeans should be washed. When the ripping is done, wash them twice at least. Try putting about one teaspoon of beach in the wash water to lighten the color and the fraying.
Wear them. Now you can show off your creation – don’t forget they will rip more as you wear them. The jeans will soon look old and daggy.

It is going to take some practice to rub your jeans down to the perfect looking rips and holes. Begin with just small damage and your jeans will look ‘designer’ shabby.

Jacquie Generra writes about Teenagers and Fashion & Personal Care as Cassandra Seveny for HowToDoThings.com.